Adventures in Flying to Machu Picchu: Avoid These Mistakes

Which airlines are the best? When is the best time to fly? Can you get direct flights to Machu Picchu? Are there alternative modes of transport? Can you get flights to Machu Picchu from Lima? Can visitors book helicopter tours to Machu Picchu? And possibly one of the most important questions, "Does it matter what flight I book?"

Where is the best place to book my international flight to Peru?

there are now many 3rd party travel metasearch engines for finding flights. Google Flights, Skyscanner, Expedia, Kayak and Orbitz are some of the most popular. I use these sites to search for good rates and schedules, then I go to the airline website to look for the exact same flight to see if it's the same rate. I prefer to book my flight directly on the airline website in case changes are needed or if there's a problem and I need to talk to a human. My one hard fast rule? I don't book on any websites that don't have phone numbers.

What are the Main Modes of Transportation Between Lima and Cusco:

Daily flights take 1 hour/20 minutes and operate from roughly 5 am - 7 pm. There are no night flights.
Several companies offer bus service that takes about 22 hours one way over paved 2-lane roads that wind through the mountains.
Latam airlines has the most flights available. Latam Airlines offer the most reliable service. (in my opinion) Latam is code share partners with Delta Airlines.

Can travelers bypass flying to Lima airport and get to Cusco directly?

After flights resumed following the pandemic lockdowns, direct flights from Bogota, Colombia and La Paz, Bolivia are all routed through Lima, Peru.
Eventually airlines may begin direct flights to Cusco when demand increases enough to justify it
A new international airport is under construction near the village of Chinchero. It's scheduled to open in 2024 (more or less).

What you need to know about local domestic airlines in Peru:
Latam Airlines - Avianca Airlines - Sky Airlines - (Viva Airlines appears not to be operating at this time)

Helicopter tours to Machu Picchu are forbidden by law.
Avianca Airlines filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy protection in May 2020 and suspended all flights to Peru. Then resumed after the borders reopened (see more information at this link)
Latam Airlines filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy protection in May 2020, just as the new partnership with Delta Airlines was taking off. After borders reopened, Latam remains best option for booking domestic flights. Why do I think this? (see more info)
Several local airlines have gone out of business in the last 2 years for various reasons. When you book your local flights in Peru separately from your international flights, the local flights are not "protected" When it takes more than 1 flight to get to your destination, it's best if your final destination is on the ticket. International flight delays are usually not an issue if you arrive in Lima at night because you can't fly to Cusco until the next morning. American and Latam Airlines, and now Delta have a few flights that arrive Lima early in the morning. (note that Latam Airlines signed partnership agreement with Delta Airlines in 2020 ) If you arrive Lima in the morning by air (or cruise ship) it makes sense to continue to Cusco the same day.
Unless you book the international and local flight in one transaction to protect the 2nd leg of your journey to your final destination, please allow at least 3-4 hours layover in Lima. After you exit customs in Lima you have to checkin for your flight to Cusco (or other destination).
For flights arriving Lima in the evening it's easy to book the Wyndham hotel at the airport and walk a short 3 minutes from terminal to hotel lobby. What happens if your international flight is delayed more than 12 hours and you need to change your hotel reservation to the next day? Will the Wyndham hotel change your reservation without a penalty? And since most people usually fly to Cusco the very next day, what can you do about your flight? A lot has to do with availability. This has happened to me a couple of times in 15 years I have been flying to S. America. If you're able to contact the Peruvian airline from the US to reschedule, and if they have availability, they're pretty good about rebooking you on a new flight. You may or may not have to pay a penalty, but you are at the mercy of the airline to get rebooked. I just showed up at the airline ticket counter a day late and explained my situation. I was prepared to have to buy a new ticket. But thankfully, I was rebooked to Cusco with only a small penalty. ($50USD)
One issue affecting flight rebooking is availability. Smaller airlines have limited departures. We have had several groups miss connections, tours or trips to the jungle due to last minute changes on flights with small airlines. If there is no availability for last minute changes, then you're stuck. If I were on a quick trip to Peru for less than a week, and could not make my flight to Cusco in a timely manner, I would immediately walk to the counter of another airline and see if I could get a flight to Cusco last minute and pay whatever they asked.
The next issue will be penalty fees. Even if there are flights available, you may be charged a penalty to get rebooked. (worse case scenario: If you're at risk of not making it to Machu Picchu or your jungle lodge due to flight changes, and your airline cannot rebook a flight that will keep you on track, you should consider going to another airline immediately to book brand new tickets to your destination. This could cause some pain to your wallet, but the trade off will be that you get to your destination)
Luggage fees. Latam Airlines is now charging extra for all checked bags and assigned seats. The other airlines are following the trend. A few times that I've booked my ticket, I went back and added on checked luggage and paid separately. I usually don't pay extra for seat selection. They automatically put me in a middle seat but I have been able to move. The flight is only 1H/20M. For me the seat assignment is not an issue.
Latam offers the most departures and the most reliable service. (in my opinion)
Latam airlines has a partnership agreement with Delta Airlines and joined the Skyteam Alliance in 2020.
we advise everyone going to Puerto Maldonado (jungle tours) to check availability for their flights with Latam before you confirm your lodge. This is the only airline offering service to PEM! Sky Airlines has a few flights to PEM but not everyday and the schedule may not be compatible with the transfers to the lodges. Keep that in mind.
what about flights booked on 3rd party websites like Expedia, Orbitz etc? I called Expedia and asked about bundled multi-carrier international flights. They told me that if you bundle your flights, and for instance, you fly Delta or United to Lima, with a confirmed reservation with a local carrier, the 2nd leg of your trip may not be protected. If your flight from US to Lima is delayed and you miss your connection to Cusco (or other destinations in Peru) Expedia says you are to contact the airline that provided the service to Lima. Don't expect to go to the airline counter and talk to someone. And here is where it gets complicated. American-based airlines will usually open for business in Lima airport exactly 3 hours prior to scheduled departures. United, and Jet Blue open late evenings. However Delta is now partners with Latam so there may be some consideration for Delta customers at the Latam counter. I don't know about American Airlines since they uncoupled from Latam airlines. Your only option would be to call them. I've had this happen to me a couple of times with different local airlines. Both airlines were able to rebook me on a later flight, but one of them charged me a $50 USD penalty. Latam airlines did not. You are at the mercy of the local airlines in this case. But it's not necessarily a big issue. You may not have time or ability to contact a US based carrier to resolve the problem. I have found that if I can politely explain my situation, many airline agents are willing to work with me to make changes. However there are no guarantees.
I went to Viva Airlines website and after searching for flights between Lima and Cusco, I got a message that they are not operating right now.
Travelers have reported that after booking their local flight on 3rd party website they have been able to contact the airlines directly to book seats and confirm checked luggage, for an extra fee.

What's the worst that can happen? (real life stories)

this one happened after covid in the merry month of May 2022 when things were kind of back to normal. Two people stayed in Lima for a few days before they were scheduled to fly to Cusco and begin the trip to Machu Picchu. Well. The traffic in Lima was super horrendous. And they scheduled a mid morning flight to Cusco so they didn't have to get up too early. (mistake #1) They were tight getting to the terminal to checkin for the flight to Cusco. All their boarding passes and health documents were in their phones which made it difficult to read at the airport entry checkpoint. (mistake #2) The lines to checkin for the flight were also horrendous and they didn't make it to the counter in time to qualify for boarding their scheduled flight. The next available flight was 2 days later. They went to other airlines to try to book a flight the same day and guess what? None were available. They waited 2 days in Lima and missed the first 2 days of their tours and activities in Cusco. Fortunately we had set up day tours in the Sacred Valley so the train tickets and Machu Picchu tickets did not need to be changed.
this also happened after covid. Most people don't expect their flights to depart early, but guess what? Anything is possible in Peru! This happened to a couple of groups who checked in for the flight from Lima to Cusco and went to the gate early, only to discover that everyone was boarding and the flight took off 30 minutes ahead of schedule! Yikes!
one group of 14 people booked the last flight of the day from Lima to Cusco, and when they checked in they discovered it was cancelled. They were rebooked at 5 am the next morning, and fortunately the airline covered the cost for the ground transfer 45 minutes by car, and the cost of their hotel in Lima for the night. The next morning they were up at 3 am and back to Lima airport for the flight to Cusco where our guide and driver were waiting. Their train to Machu Picchu was departing at 8:30AM and there was not enough time to get to the station. They didn't make it for the scheduled train departure. Luckily there was space for all 14 on the next train, but unfortunately the group was charged $30 USD each for the ticket change. They made it to Machu Picchu in time for their afternoon tour. But on the flight back to Lima, they were again delayed getting out of Cusco and rebooked on a flight that stopped in Arequipa. They had prepaid for a private guided tour of Lima the same day, but due to the delays, they never saw it. Peruvian Airlines refused to cover the cost for their tours or changes to train tickets.
Lesson: don't book flights back to back with other activities with strict timelines. Allow a buffer between your flights and your activities. Buy comprehensive travel insurance that covers ground expenses like trains, entry tickets, guide services and missed activities.
A family of 2 planned an 8 day trip with a hike to Lares Valley. On the day they left the US, the father got notification from Star Peru Airlines (who went out of business) that their flight to Cusco the next morning was cancelled. No explanation was offered. The website showed no availability from Lima for any flights to Cusco (or Puerto Maldonado) for 5 days! While they were flying to Lima, we were able to use their passport info and confirmation codes to call the local Star Peru airline office and get the family rebooked the next day on another local airline, Peruvian Airlines. Although their arrival in Cusco was delayed a few hours, they stayed on track with their original itinerary.
Lesson: connect in advance with a local tour operator who is willing to assist you when unexpected things happen. Make sure they have all your details and permission to make decisions on your behalf if you're out of touch.
a family of 6 planned a 4 day trip to Puerto Maldonado to visit the jungle, then continue to Cusco to visit Machu Picchu. But on the flight to Puerto Maldonado, Star Peru turned the plane around and returned to Cusco.There were no other flights that day so Star Peru provided a hotel for 1 night and vouchers for 1 meal. Meanwhile the airline could not find availability for flights to Puerto Maldonado on any airline the next day. Or the following day. The trip to the jungle was cancelled by circumstances beyond anyone's control. Adios Adventure Travel was able to organize accommodations and activities for the additional days in Cusco. Star Peru refused to cover the cost of the missed trip to the jungle (about $3500 USD for the entire family) or the cost for the last minute activities and additional services in Cusco.
Lesson: choose your airline carefully when flying to remote regions. Buy comprehensive travel insurance that covers all your activities and ground expenses. Work with a local company who is willing to help you when things get out of control.
we have many more stories of "ordinary" flight delays from Lima to Cusco, and Cusco to Lima. It's not uncommon for flights to be delayed for 30 minutes to several hours. We consider it a blessing when people arrive on the day they were scheduled to arrive.
Lesson: avoid scheduling ticketed activities on the same day as your flights. There is usually no refund. The ideal plan would be to fly to Cusco and spend the night before beginning your trip to Machu Picchu or proceding with other activities.

Traveling to Machu Picchu

Nearly 100% of international flights go through the sea level coastal city of Lima, Peru. The nearest airport to Machu Picchu is located in the mountains in high altitude Cusco, Peru. (11,000 ft / 3350 m elevation) Although Cusco is considered an international airport, the majority of flights will come through Lima. Here's why it matters:

getting to Cusco is a 2 day process for most visitors coming from the US and Europe. This increases the chances for exposure to flight delays and cancellations
many flights from US arrive late evening in Lima and an overnight is needed. There is one hotel at the airport. Wyndham is an easy 3 minute walk from the terminal. Any other hotel you book will require transportation. Miraflores is at least 45 minute drive each way. Hotels do not have free shuttles and it's best to arrange transportation with the hotel in advance. Average cost is $35 - $50 USD each way for small groups 2-4. More for larger groups. The airport is not a comfortable place to rest for even a few hours. The VIP lounges are not open at night.
Cusco, Peru is the gateway airport for 100% of all Machu Picchu visitors who arrive by air.
local domestic airline services can have issues with reliability due to weather, high altitude climate, flight availability and the potential for mechanical problems
from Cusco it's another 5-6 hours by train and bus each way to get to Machu Picchu ruins.
there are no helicopter tours from Cusco to Machu Picchu

Recommendations:

include a day in Cusco on the front of your trip to Machu Picchu. If you're delayed, you won't miss anything critical. Cusco is a great place to walk around and enjoy on your own or we can arrange guided walking city tour.
avoid scheduling outbound flights from Cusco to Lima on the same day as your visit to Machu Picchu.
avoid scheduling the last flight of the day between Lima and Cusco.
allow at least 4-5 hour layover in Lima airport for connecting flights. There is a risk of flight delays from high altitude Cusco.
Expedia, Orbitz, Kayak have no control over local airlines. Know their rules before you go.
if you're traveling to both Machu Picchu and Galapagos, protect your flight between Cusco and Ecuador by booking all legs of the flights in one transaction. There is no direct flight. Airlines will stop in Lima where you will change planes and clear immigration. Avoid booking the Cusco to Lima flight separately from the Lima to GYE (or UIO) in Ecuador. Latam has daily flights departing Cusco early in the morning to Lima and from Lima to Ecuador the same day. Avianca airlines has limited service from Lima, Peru to GYE and UIO in Ecuador. And I couldn't find any Avianca flights from Cusco to Lima.
If you have time, include a "buffer" day in GYE or UIO between your trip to Machu Picchu and Galapagos Islands.
buy Travel Insurance (real insurance), not the cheap, money-making insurance click-bait offered when you book your flight!) Read the terms of the insurance you buy. Even comprehensive insurance has different levels of coverage. If you need the flexibility to "cancel for any reason" then buy CFAR insurance. It will cost you a little more, but it will not only give you peace of mind, it will give you a return on your travel investment in case you do need to cancel. For any reason! Always read the terms.
Have at least $500 pp cash emergency fund and VISA or MASTERCARD credit cards with several thousand dollars available credit.
It is customary to pay cash (or credit) for medical services at the time they are rendered. Then file a claim to recover your expenses after you get home.
Allow longer airport layovers in Lima and Cusco during the rainy season (Nov-April) when flight delays due to cloudy, misty conditions are more likely.
We provide everyone with information to set up free texting service on WHAT'S APP to stay in contact with our manager, in Cusco. Most tour guide do not have access to accurate status updates or flight tracker info for your flights to Cusco. Free wifi is available in most restaurants in Lima airport. It's ideal to let our manager in Cusco know if there are any changes to the status of your flight and arrival.

There will always be unforseeable circumstances that are out of anyone's control. But by implementing a few simple strategies when booking your flights you can avoid pitfalls and unnecessary stress during your big adventure to Machu Picchu. You don't just want to get there, you want to enjoy the journey!